I have a very limited palette. Michael Harding Cremnitz White, Robert Doaks Smalt Blue, Terra Rosa and Lead Tin Yellow GE, Old Holland Warm Sepia Extra and Mars Black. I do have Doaks Gen Ivory as an option.
Two questions:
I was reading last night on your site that there is a problem with Smalt. I’ve been using it since 2004 with no problems fully realizing that is just a speck of time. Would it be a good idea to replace mine, if so any suggestions?
I had been using a tiny amount of Mineral Spirits in the past if need_1JG6973_F.jpg. If I need a bit more loose paint would Cold Pressed Linseed Oil be the safest thing to use?
The surface of my canvas has very little paint. I’m including a small work to see. I no longer use medium in my paintings since 2005. At that time I was using Blockx Amber with a little Cold Pressed Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits. I started using that medium in 1993 again, the paintings look as when they were initially painted but I do realize that is not nearly a substantial amount of time to discern any problems.
Brian, thank you for the response.
I just spoke with Robert and he told me he uses Cobalt. Hasn’t made it that way for years I just happen to have a very old tube. He didn’t feel that it would be a problem.
Any thoughts on using Linseed oil if I need the paint a bit looser?
Brian, again, thanks!
Not a clue. Hopefully not from Ivory. Next time I speak with him which should be in the next few weeks I’ll ask.
True smalt is a very poor pigment for use in oil painting. It will likely fade when bound in oil to become a dull brownish gray. It is likely that your paints are just too young to see this change. This defect was known to painters in the Renaissance.
Now, are you sure that what Doak sold actually contained smalt pigment PB 32? I remember that Doak did not include pigment numbers on his tubes of paint and had issues with some of his paints containing pigments different than what was traditionally associated with a color name. Plenty of manufacturers do this, but usually the name is followed by the word “hue” or “extra”.
The Blockx amber medium is so expensive that people probably do not add enough of it to see the embrittlement or darkening that can be associated with excessive use of medium. At least hard resins (if genuine) dissolved in oil at least to not contribute to solvent sensitivity like soft resins but they can make a film that is more brittle.
I thought that was probably the case. A minimal addition of linseed oil or stand oil diluted with a solvent or added in very small amounts is perfectly sound if you need to worry about fat over lean (meaning that you have diluted lower layers to some extend and are not just painting neat at the CPVC).
This is not an answer but a question: What is Genuine Ivory Black?
Latest Post: How can I prevent plywood surface checking from damaging paint layer–will paper or sheer fabric work? Our newest member: Jaslyvop Recent Posts Unread Posts
