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No gamsol but still fat over lean process

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Has any one of you experience with Lavender spike oil or Zest-it products to replace gamsol in the beginning of the painting process? I would like to work with more environment and health friendly products. Normally I use gamsol for the transparant wash and mix gamsol and lineseed for Amber underpainting. Lineseedoil in my first layer of full paint and stand oil in second layer. Than when finished a varnish. So if I start with a spike oil (which maybe does not give a stable paint layer) from the beginning in the first 2 steps, I need varnish in my second paint layer which Is not preferable. So how do I get a wash and underpainting transparant but still working or adapting all the fat over lean steps?

Kristin, I only use tubed colors. Will mixing your own influence the painting processsteps?

Thanks a lot. I totally understand. Im going to learn to make my own pigments with medium soon, would you please explain how this will influence the painting process. So I totally understand both ways of working. Sandra

​Hi Kristin,

appreciate if you could clarify what you mean by “………large amounts of essential oil.” Is using Lavender spike oil: tube oil paint in 1:1 or even up to 2:1 (max.) OK?

I.E. what is the dilution limit you can use in an underpainting and still achieve adequate adhesion?

Recently reading an article from Jerry’s artarama re this oil indicates that the vapours are non-toxic and it  evaporates about the same speed as OMS, can be mixed with mediums, and a safe alternative to OMS. (no special ventilation requirements).The MSDS also gives no concerns unless you swallow it or get it in your eyes. The only drawback seems to be the high price as compared to OMS.

Many thanks in advance

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Are you only using tubed colors? Or are you making your paints from dry pigments and medium?

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In short the answer is yes…..but since you are working with tubed paints this makes things less complicated. Painting with large amounts of any essential oil can lead to the formation of a weakened paint film (we suspect this may be a possibility when using citrus oils as well but more research is needed to confirm this). That being said why do you feel you need to add varnish to your second layer? Adding varnish even in moderate amounts can increase the brittleness of your paint film, lead to yellowing/darkening, and also make for a paint layer that will remain sensitive should your painting require cleaning in the future. Why not try adding more medium (try stand oil for example) to your second layer instead? You can of course use whatever layering system you wish…we simply recommend that if you are going to use products that can create sensitive paint films that you record what you use on the back of your painting so that conservators and professionals will know how best to care for your painting in the future.

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Hi Sandra…making your paints can be rewarding but also quite involved. We recommend that you actually try to experience this yourself firsthand rather than read about it on this forum (or other forums). When making any oil paints by hand, you should aim for a somewhat stiff consistency after properly mulling and dispersing the pigments throughout the medium. There is a helpful chapter on this subject in Mark Gottsegen’s “The Painter’s Handbook” which is fairly affordable and easy to locate online. Finally, there are additional workshops hosted by both Kremer Pigments in NYC (and Germany) and Natural Pigments (California) that cover this topic should be interested in attending those.

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