Does enhancing lightfastness by "adding iron" apply in oil paint? (PY3 + PY42 or PY43, PR112 + PR101 or PR102)

Hello MITRA,​

I received a gift of half a dozen tubes of pigment-rich professional paint with seemingly no strange fillers. However, two tubes have questionable pigments: PY3 and PR112. I would feel bad not finding a use for them, so I wonder if the suggestions from this post could apply with oil paint as well:
From https://www.artcons.udel.edu/mitra/forums/question?QID=776:
“If you mix a small amount of Gamblin Etching Ink Yellow Ochre (PY43), you might increase lightfastness (Iron oxides are used with an organic pigment in the paint industries). Of course, it will affect the chroma and lightness of Hansa Yellow Light (PY3).”
I also found the assertion that “adding Iron aids in increasing lightfastness for fabric dyes” at https://botanicalcolors.com/botanical-colors-how-tos/how-to-use-iron-powder-ferrous-sulfate/.

Handprint.com lists PY3 + PY42 (aureolin [hue], Holbein, in watercolor) as the most satisfactory PY3 in the listed lightfast tests ( https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterfs.html).  
If you feel that this tactic could work with oil paint, could the protective measure of “adding iron,” perhaps in a 1:1 ratio, also work with Napthol Red PR112 using a brighter Red Iron Oxide PR101? Or would I just have the ultimate end result of a pure Red Iron Oxide after 50 years?

Also, does anyone know if PY3 ever stabilizes in its color after light exposure? I see it darkens and browns, but does it stabilize into a brownish dark yellow after a set amount of months or years and then remain that way, or does this darkening process last indefinitely, leaving a strange, dark greenish-brown after 70+ years? If that’s the case and it’s rather useless as a yellow in the longer term, maybe the safest use for PY3 would be to use it as sort of an “extender” for dark brown shades, or perhaps a dark Chrome Oxide Green?
Thank you in advance for any information you could provide.